Dolly

Dolly brings a confident, coast-to-city sensibility to Unley, channelling bright flavours and effortless charm. The mood is modern and unpretentious, the kind of place where a chilled glass and a crisp bite set the tempo before the evening deepens into something indulgent.

The menu moves with an easy rhythm. Think Smoky Bay oysters cooled with limoncello granita, or blue swimmer crab on toasted brioche with a crown of roe. Pastas lean fresh and fragrant: linguine threaded with preserved lemon, prawns, parsley and chives; cavatappi twirled through pork sausage, pesto, basil and pecorino. From there, it is straight to substance: a half roast chicken glossed with nduja butter over pea puree, or a Wagyu striploin with jus and mustard. Sides add colour and crunch — smashed potatoes with yuzu yoghurt, spring onion and Aleppo, and roasted pumpkin brightened by citrus yoghurt and pomegranate.

Dessert keeps things distinctly local with a smashed pav of passionfruit, vanilla cream and strawberries, while an affogato invites a splash of liqueur. The cocktail list is playful and poised: Roxanne (coconut-washed dark spiced rum and strawberry) and Garden of Eden (gin, yellow chartreuse, apple and cucumber syrup) lead the way, with amaro from Montenegro to Averna waiting in the wings.

Book a table, settle in, and let Dolly sing you sweetly through the evening. Go on — give in to a little encore.