Must Winebar

Must started its life as a little bit of Paris on Beaufort Street, a typical French bistro, albeit with an exceptional wine list.

Owner and chef Russell Blaikie is inspired by the “food of the sun” from countries encircling the Mediterranean.

Producers and growers take centre stage in his menu of specials – if Gary Tedesco has some amazing purple cauliflower, Russell might turn it into fritters with herbed Tahini and Aleppo Pepper.

If his butcher has dry-aged Hyden sirloin on the bone then it’s onto the menu paired with a celebration of Manjimup Root vegetables and walnuts turned into a less-than-classic gratin.

Must opened nearly 18 years ago. It had Viognier on its wines-by-the-glass list on day one when people had never heard of it and struggled to say it. And just like then, Must is marching to the beat of its own drum, keeping the experience fresh, exhilarating even. What a ride!